Mist lying across the forested slopes of the Virunga volcanoes, Rwanda

The choice

Not better and worse. Shorter and dearer, or longer and fuller.

Both countries protect the same species in adjoining ranges, and the decision is almost entirely about the shape of your trip.

Itinerary and quote within 24 hoursPlanned on the ground in KenyaNo deposit, no obligation
RwandaUganda
Permit costSubstantially higherLower, meaningfully
Getting to the forestAbout two hours on tarmac from KigaliA long drive, or a flight plus a drive
The forestVolcanoes: bamboo, open slopes, high altitudeBwindi: dense, steep, genuinely impenetrable in places
Trek characterOften shorter; altitude is the challengeOften longer; terrain and vegetation are the challenge
TrailheadsAll from one park headquartersFour sectors, far apart; the permit fixes yours
Lodge fieldSmall, concentrated, mostly top endThin at the top, broad in the middle
Shortest complete tripSix nightsNine or ten nights
Also availableGolden monkeys; chimpanzees at NyungweChimpanzees at Kibale; a longer habituation option
Pairs naturally withKenya, by a two-hour jetIts own circuit — lions, the Nile, chimpanzees

Choose Rwanda if

  • The trip is short. Six nights works here and nowhere else in the region.
  • You would rather not spend days on a road. Tarmac from the airport to the lodge, and no internal flights.
  • Comfort at altitude matters, particularly after a wet tracking day.
  • You want to combine it with a classic safari, because Kigali is two hours from Nairobi by scheduled jet.

Choose Uganda if

  • The permit price matters, because it is meaningfully lower and you may want two.
  • You want a fuller trip. Chimpanzee tracking at Kibale is the best in the region, and there are lions and a river beyond it.
  • You have ten days or more, which is what the driving distances require.
  • You are relaxed about the beds. The field is good in the middle and thin at the very top, and we would rather say so.

The habituation experience

Uganda offers a longer experience with a gorilla family still being habituated — several hours rather than one, with researchers, in a small group.

It is demanding, it is not available everywhere, numbers are very limited, and for somebody who has already done a standard trek it is the most interesting thing either country offers. Ask about it early; there are few places.

What we will not say

That one country’s gorillas are better. They are the same species in adjoining ranges, and any difference in a given morning is down to which family you draw, where it has moved and what the weather is doing.

Anybody telling you Rwanda’s gorillas are easier to see, or Uganda’s are more natural, is describing an average of a few mornings rather than a property of a country.

The third option

Mountain gorillas are also found in the Democratic Republic of Congo. We do not plan trips there, and we are not going to characterise conditions in a country where our partner does not operate.

If DRC is what you want, you want an operator who works there. That is a straightforward answer and it is the right one.

Ready to turn this into a real itinerary?

Send us your dates, who is travelling and roughly what you want to spend per person per night. Our gorilla specialist comes back within 24 hours with a plan built around them and a costed quote.

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